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In the mid-1970s, there was no

outside store sign to be seen at

90 Beekman Ave. But its two

windows were filled with appro-

priate items, and a wonderful

odor likely emanated from the

tiny kitchen inside.

This very likely came from the

special kind of hamburger 

griddled there. This storefront

then housed the "Nite & Day

Delicatessen." "Those McDonald's

people have been here," once

bragged the resident cook,

Mario Bernal (pictured), pre-

sumably kidding with the N.Y.

Times reporter. "But I wouldn't

reveal my secret (burger) sea-

soning." "Mayito" (being his

nickname) reportedly owned

this same establishment in

later years. He was also a

master of the classic Cubano

sandwich.

What exactly is the recipe for

such a sandwich? These ingredi-

ents are placed inside a slit

hunk of Cuban-style bread

(which has been heated, until

crunchy): slow-roasted, "pulled"

pork; ham (sometimes; with

salami incorporated, instead,

around Tampa, FL); Swiss cheese;

and pickles. Then, it is dressed, a

mixture of mayonnaise & mustard

being used. Traditionally, the

Cubano incorporates marinated

pork, a mojo sauce (consisting of

orange and lime juices, garlic,

oregano, and cumin) having been

used in the marination process.

Mayito's resulting sandwich must

have seemed much more than a

snack, and might have been even

better if downed with a can of

(Goya-brand) Kola Champagne

India, a popular soft drink in

Hispanic eateries. Some locals

may have come, rather, for the

traditional empanada (a crepe

pocket stuffed with a beef

picadillo, which included garlic,

green peppers, cumin, and--

possibly--raisins). Or maybe they

sought our classic combination

"wedge"--that sandwich, referred

to more often, elsewhere--as a

submarine.